Monday 31 May 2010

Old Collides Into New

If you had asked me two weeks ago if Prague was a stop on my trip, I would have laughed. It had seemed to me that not only was Prague too far but it was too overwhelming for me. Tim Montgomery has frequently told me while we stroll through the halls of the chateau that Prague’s Old Town Square has a lot of history and is very scenic. With the angel on one shoulder taking copious notes on the history, the devil on the other is hearing from a friend about the New Town with an exciting nightlife. When finally breathing the chilled Czech air, I found a perfect blend of new and old to culminate into quite the weekend.




When first stepping into the outskirts bustling Old Town Square, there are several first impressions that can be noted. The first is the overpowering sense of historical relevance of where I was standing. From Prague.cz, the old town square was constructed in the 10th century to be a place where assorted goods from various places can be sold. An ironic twist is that now, it is a place where tourists from various places come to soak in the beautiful buildings that form a cocoon around the square. Swarms of guided tours buzz about like hornets around Astronomical Clock that is mounted on the wall of the Old Town Hall. It stares back with a lucidity of the ages like a watchful eye that has seen it all. It was built in 1410 and then refurnished by Master Hanus in 1490. Boasting more than just hands, there are zodiac sign indicators as well as a golden sun that spins to indicate the suns position in the sky. Fighting through the crowd, I stumble farther into history.





With my eyes drawn to the center piece of the square, a statue in remembrance to Jan Hus exposes itself. In studying it, you could be convinced that it is simply a pigeon refuge. The bronze statue has turned to a deep green that is complimented by white, chalky bird excrement. It has been at the heart of this square since 1915 in reverent honor and commemoration to Jan Hus fighting the church practices. These included selling indulgences as well as only the priest taking Holy Communion and not the people. Finally, the dark, ominous spires of the Tyn Chapel protrude into vision in this beautiful historical jumble. Seen in the picture to the right, its gothic architecture stands out like a dark cloud in the blue sky. Built in 1365, it is the final resting place of Tycho Brahe who was a famous astronomer.





When my digital camera chirps that it is running low on space for any more pictures, I know that I have probably seen enough of the historical relics. Rumbling in my stomach also indicates that my stomach has run out of things to do and requires some attention. Following my nose, and in this case my gut, I head to New Town for a street hot dog. According to Prague.cz, New Town was founded by Charles IV in 1348. Just like a snake shedding its skin, Old Town Square was old and a newer, bigger one was needed. An outer fortification was torn down to allow the city to expand and Wenceslas Square was born.





The very interesting thing about this square is how modern it is. I can see a Nike store, several chic looking clothes stores and, of course, a McDonald’s from my vantage point. Despite the fact that I had spent the other half of my morning in hundreds of years of history, I found it funny to make the time travel in a matter of blocks. There are also modern dance clubs in the surrounding buildings if the locals want to unwind after a long day. Specifically, Lucerna Music Bar and Club which is located literally a stone’s throw from the Wenceslas Square. Able to fit scores of people, the haze of the club is still in periphery of my sight and the bumping of the music is still ringing in my ears.





Though I am of only amateur status as a European explorer, Prague opened my eyes to a new experience of culture. So far, it has seemed to me that cities have a disproportional personality. Some are known for history and some are known for their younger, wilder side but I had not seen a place where the two were such fast friends who lived so close to each other. Prague is a bi-polar city that is not afraid to flaunt both sides at once. Walking down a 500 year old boulevard to a dance club may seem strange to an American but to the Czech people living in this beautiful city, it is just another walk in the park.

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